Smoke City BBQ owner’s military values inspire menu and business model of Newton restaurant

Justin Lambert has been retired from the Iowa National Guard for some time, but the 17 years, seven months and 14 days he dedicated to the state agency has amounted to experience he never thought would apply to his latest professional pursuits as a civilian: operating his first-ever barbecue restaurant in Newton.

For the record, Lambert’s military operational speciality was not in food service, but rather logistics. In fact he primarily worked as a 92Y supply sergeant until he medically retired. While that managerial experience is coming in handy, it is the seven core Army values that keep running through his head as a business owner.

Oftentimes shortened to the acronym LDRSHIP — which stands for Loyalty, Duty, Respect, Selfless Service, Honor, Integrity and Personal Courage — it is these values that Lambert is translating to Smoke City BBQ, a tiny restaurant with big space inside The Thunderdome, located on the west side of town.

“LDRSHIP is instilled in you from Day One where you swear in,” Lambert said.

Apart from the four years he spent as a cook at The Scoreboard, a former sports bar in Newton, Lambert admittedly has minimal restaurant experience. With the blessing from his wife, Alyssa, who also co-owns Smoke City BBQ, he is daring to do something entirely new with his life, which, indeed, takes personal courage.

“I’m doing something that I’ve never dreamed about doing even in my early 20s up to my 30s,” Lambert, 39, said. “I’m tackling that head on, and there are still learning curves to get through. I’m also the type of person who will try to tackle every issue by myself, but this place is forcing me to get the assistance I need.”

Lambert is accompanied by another cook and a front-of-house cashier. Together, they have prepared the lunch and dinner menus for customers every Wednesday through Saturday since Jan. 3, a grand opening that was soon mired by a winter storm that doused the flames of their smokers and kept customers at home.

“We ended up shutting down that entire week because my smoker would not run through the ignition process,” he said. “I don’t know if it was just so cold or what.”

Smoke City BBQ has been met with countless roadblocks and limitations since its inception, but Lambert’s steadfast resolve has made these challenges easier to handle, accept or, in some cases, innovate. For instance, since there is no grill on site, practically everything on the menu is cooked in a smoker.

Which is what people would expect out of a BBQ joint, but the restriction to only smokers inhibits Lambert’s menu. While this would be frustrating to a normal kitchen crew — and it probably is for Lambert to some extent — it does not impede the Smoke City BBQ staff’s creativity and ingenuity.

Initially, the Smoke City BBQ menu was much larger. A hood system was too expensive to install, requiring Lambert to start hacking away at what he considered fun main courses and side dishes like mac and cheese, which would no doubt be popular with customers. He had to keep it simple.

Well, no one said he couldn’t make the simple more exciting.

If they can’t fry jalapeño poppers, then they’ll smoke ‘em instead.

Oh! And wrap them in bacon. Because why not?

Hood system be damned! If Lambert is to make an impression on customers using only his smokers, he would have to think outside the box. No better example of this was a recent Smoke City BBQ special of honey jalapeño ribs, a mouthwatering combination of words that easily won over customers’ tastebuds.

“Those were a pretty big hit,” he said.

Smoke City BBQ has also created its own smokey take on a Midwestern classic; smoked ham balls are quite popular individually or served with the restaurant’s two, military-themed specials (named after the MH-6 helicopter and C-17 transport aircraft), which also come with helpings of each side.

It’s ideas like this that remind Lambert of why he loves cooking so much.

“You can create anything you want as long as you’re willing and you got the creativity for it,” Lambert said.

Despite his creative takes on BBQ dishes, Lambert insists he is no professional, and he has not participated in any competitions before. To him, BBQ has always been a hobby. He tried out his first smoker at age 22, starting out with pork butt much like many other BBQ hobbyists. He quickly learned the ins and outs.

Then he would push himself much like he has with the Smoke City BBQ menu, testing his limits and experimenting with new flavors and ideas. Which is a luxury he and staff currently have as a new restaurant that is trying to find its footing and develop a customer base.

For many years, Moo’s BBQ carried the mantle for best brick-and-mortar BBQ restaurant in the area up until its closing in November 2022, following the death of owner Jeremy Biondi. With a Starbucks being constructed in its place, it has left an opening for another BBQ joint to pick up where Moo’s left off.

Yvette Webster, co-owner of The Thunderdome, told Newton News she is excited to see a BBQ restaurant operational in town again.

“We are thrilled to have another food option in The Thunderdome, in addition to our pizzas, burgers and more for guests,” Webster said of Smoke City BBQ and its inclusion in the 1611 First Ave. W. building. “We have already partnered on multiple caterings and are pleased to have BBQ in Newton again.”

Admittedly, Lambert was a big fan of Moo’s and would sometimes eat there three times a week. He speaks highly of the restaurant’s impact in the community.

“I wanted BBQ back in Newton,” Lambert said of a sentiment many locals have. “If I had the hankering for BBQ I didn’t want to drive 30 or 40 miles to go get it.”

While Lambert is excited to bring back BBQ to Newton, Jasper County and the other surrounding areas, he has also set high standards and goals for himself. Not only does he want Smoke City BBQ to be an adequate substitute for Moo’s, he wants the food to be even better.

Lambert knows that is going to be a tough hill to climb, but he is already putting in the time and effort to make it happen.

Keeping to a strict military-like regiment, Lambert is getting up at 4 o’clock every morning to get a headstart on the day’s meat: pulled pork, brisket, ribs, wings and ham balls. Hours after the last dinner meals have been served he’s back home for a few hours rest before starting it all over again.

It’s tough work devoting most of his time to Smoke City BBQ, but it is essential these first few months stand out for the restaurant. Lambert is constantly reminded of the concept behind selfless service. Which is why he and his staff are doing everything they can to please customers and keep them coming back.

“I want people to leave here, obviously, with a full belly,” Lambert said. “But I hope we leave that mark where they get home and maybe later they’re talking about our food and saying, ‘Maybe we should come back. I think we should go back.’ I want to be able to build those kinds of relationships.”